To mount the front end: Take a look at the photo below- then read on....
1.) LOOSELY Assemble the front end- fenders, radiator support, radiator brace,
lower air scoop, even be sure the side grilles will fit. Snug the bolts, but
don't tighten them. Set on stands in front of the car.
2.) (I hope the doors are already on and alighned?) Put duct-tape acoss the rear
edge of the hood, and front edge of the cowl. with the front end off- mount the
HOOD! Get a good even gap across the cowl, and center it. Be sure to install the
cowl belt rubber. It will really help the hood to "not hit" the edge of the
cowl. I will sometimes build up the center with a strip of rubber (1/4" thick)
if needed. The old cowl rubber was pretty hard, but the new repro is softer- and
squishes down easier.
3.) raise hood, and block/hang it so it stays up. Put duct-tape along the edge
of the cowl...where the fender will align, and the rear edge of the fender where
it aligns with the door.
4.) "Glue" the 3 rubber shims around the "weldnuts" at the front of the lock
pillar ("C" pic 2)- that hold the fender to the pillar in front of the door. get
2 or 3 people to pick up the assembled front end- you will need to raise the
rear considerably to get it over the wheel/tire if installed- it's easier if
there are no front wheels on the car. walk the assembly back to the door, and
set it on the hinge pillar about 1" in front of the door.
5.) begin to slide the fenders back until you acheive a good gap the full length
of the door. add/remove shims until you can install the 3 rear bolts (at "C" pic
2) - get them SNUG- NOT TIGHT! You will need to be able to raise/lower the
fender for alignment at the top of the cowl edge (see "A" Pic 1), and at the
front of the rocker panel. It is not important that these EVER be TIGHT!
Temporarily block up the radiator support-to-frame brackets.
6.) Install (loosely) the 2 (or 3) inner fender bolt-to cowl (firewall) brace
screw-bolts (at "D" pic 2). These go into the (usually green) clips on the
firewall brace.
7.) Install the bolts and sufficient shims under the radiator support braces- to
get a nice even and matching level with the edge of the cowl (at "A"). Also
install the shims under the inner fender apron pads. 8.) Test-close the hood, to
be sure the front end is "square" to the cowl. You will need the hood bumpers
installed, and duct-tape the edges of the hood. It is better that the front hood
latch plate NOT be installed to the air scoop mounting panel. When you are happy
with the hood alignment (fore/aft, and good gaps at edges), Tighten the radiator
support bolts securely.
8.) Then go back and tighten the inner fender apron bolts (at "D" pic 2). and
all the other bolts except the ones at the rear of the fender- these only need
to be SNUG (at "C" pic 2)
Of course, you will need to make several "adjustments" to this procedure- as you
run into particular problems with your car. One thing I have had to do on
ocassion, is move the whole assembled fender unit a bit forward so the hood sat
down further between the fenders. I try to keep the door gap as near 3/8" as
possible. Also, I have had to shim the fender-radiator support bolts to "spread"
the fenders apart at the front- if the hood didn't sit sufficiently down between
them. The front edge "points" of the hood should be aligned with the front edge
of the fenders where the side-grilles attach.
Ray
